We finally picked up anchor at 07.00, and moored at 10.30 (-3 GMT), at Pier II of Porto do Tubarao. I took my place on the bridge for this operation and assisted the Captains and the pilot who boarded on our passage in by recording important information such as changes to thruster settings, Pilot and tug details, times etc. Third Mate Jess and AB Bobet Catapang were also present on the bridge. Three tugs, the Hercules, Taurus, and S-Joao assisted us as we came closer into the port –maneuvering us into position alongside and so as not to get stuck in the shallows of the harbour. While the deck crew managed our mooring lines, working in conjunction with the stevedores ashore and under the direction of Chie and Second Mates, I continued to keep a lookout on the bridge while the Captains communicated to them via radio.
This gave me the opportunity to speak with the pilot. A pilot is someone very familiar with the entry route while mooring, and directs the tugs and ship until she is moored. Often these are experienced Captains, but sometimes they are just competent locals –as was the case here. We spoke about what to do and where to go in the city, and where not to go in the city and what not to do. We still had a good view of the shoreline and city, and so he was able to point out the approximate positions of important places to remember.
Chief Officer Tyagi and the Captains arranged the loading plan with a port authority, and this was expected to take 30 hours. 18.00hrs the next day was set as the time when all shore-leave expired. Once immigration had arrived I was given permission to go ashore. At around 15.00 I was ferried to the arrivals/departures gate by a small utility boat. I decided to go in with a party consisting of Myself, PO/ER Nelson, 3rd Engineer Benedict, 2nd Engineer Siddesh, and Electrical Officer Sujjeet. After reporting to the security terminal a plant mini-bus transported us through immigration and the outskirts of Vitoria.
We were dropped at a bus stop, where a taxi company had set up a permanent tent. As we waited for a bus to take us to a shopping centre, a Taxi driver approached us and the Indians bartered with him. Although we agreed on a price, he ended up charging us 4 times the price. He also took us to see a dodgy money changer, who I later found out ripped us off 30 Reais to the dollar. The two times I went into town, I never once got to see the central city. Whenever I took a taxi, only the local shops where the drivers received commission where discussed, and pretended not to understand when I tried to explain I wanted to go into the CBD. Buses are impossible if you don’t know either the city or Portuguese. No-one wants to talk to you unless you do, either. Also, I found it impossible to buy a phrase-book in the places we went to. Even the tourist kiosk, whose attendant spoke a little English, told me that he had no city map to give me.
We ended up drinking on the beach near our drop-off point after doing some shopping at Wal-Mart (exotic, eh?). Lucky I didn’t want to buy much from Wal-Mart due to M.C. McDodge money-changer. 2 t-shirts (to wear as head-coverings), razors, some “guarana c/ laranga” (guarana and orange) soft-drink called “Uai”. As I said it was impossible to find a Portugeuse-Englese lexicon, even when I (think I) managed to describe it, here or anywhere else. Same with 3V Calculator batteries, and shaving cream, and sunglasses I didn’t need to take out a loan for –among other things I take for granted. The beach was actually pretty good, and probably a better cultural experience than going into central Vitoria. Every hundred or so meters there was a kiosk where you could buy beer and food. People drink beer nearly like water over here, and drinking on the beach is A.O.K. with the armed Polizia. We didn’t even have to bribe them. We bought Bacardi from one of the supermarkets, some coconuts from a temporary stall, and borrowed a machete from the stall owner to cut them open so we could drink Bacardi out of them. Live musicians were playing at one of the kiosks, and there was some dancing. We ended up trying to talk to people- some understood enough. One guy was making free barbeque steak, so I spoke to him for quite a while. The drug dealers mostly spoke very good English –every time I went into a public toilet someone was there snorting cocaine.
“[Something in Portuguese],” stern voice from dealer,
“Sorry, only speak English,” monotone, after seeing he wasn’t armed,
“Oh.. American?” suspect,
“Noo, New Zealand,” conversational but slightly offended
“OH! New Zealand! You want?”
I explained that I was subject to drug-testing so as to be polite, but this guy wanted to know about New Zealand anyway so we spoke a while when he came outside. He seemed to know a little about us.
There are plenty of beggars around, but they were all begging for drink or drugs. They didn’t appear to be interested in the guy giving away food. I chased some birds that looked like turkey vultures on the beach at some point, kicked a soccer ball around for a bit with some of the punters, etc.
At one point I saw an owl while walking with the Electrical Officer Sujjeet, and we tried to take photos from as close as we could. He explained that in India the owl was a symbol for stupidity.. I told him that in European culture we tended to think the opposite.
I got back to the ship early morning, and ignored a security guard who tried to extort a $US1 bribe.. I’m told this isn’t a good idea, but he had to think before asking anyway so I ran with it. Being the only European in our group I think he assumed that I was a more important officer. Also I was slightly drunk, and bigger than him.
Went out the next morning to try to get into Vitoria city again, failed, and ended up spending my time wandering around, buying food, and taking photos. I spent a bit of time near at the internet Café (which had barely adequate service- hence no photos on the last post). Spent about half an hour trying to explain to a mall-attendant what I wanted for lunch.
Vitoria has been my first South American city, so I don’t have much to base a comparison on. Things are prices averagely compared to New Zealand. Vice is high. Dishonesty is to be taken for granted, don’t be offended by it or you’ll cause trouble. If you become aware of it, tell them you know better, joke, barter a better deal, or remember someplace else you need to be. Buy a dictionary AND a travel guide BEFORE you go, or else spent your time with a local friend. Avoid the slums. Don’t go to places where there are chickens running around free, go no-where near the slums built on the hills. People are pretty friendly here otherwise, and the atmosphere is usually flat-out relaxed and happy. GREAT place to party. Next time I’ll find a way into the CBD.
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